Technique Starting Points

Every technique card carries its own settings. Where the answer is genuinely "use your default setup", those entries are omitted — only the ones with a specific starting point are listed here.

• Flash — Manual, Direct, Close

  Power: 1/8 | Aperture: f/8 | ISO: 400 | Shutter: 1/180 | Distance: 1–2m

• Shutter Drag (Night)

  Shutter: 1/15 or slower | ISO: 400 or under | Aperture: f/5.6 | Flash: manual 1/8

• Multiple Exposure (In-Camera)

  Shooting Menu > Multiple Exposure > Additive or Average

• Colour Hunting

  Colour accuracy matters — avoid heavy presets.

• Zone Focusing

  Focus: fixed 2m | Aperture: f/8–f/11 | Zone: approx 1.5–3.5m

• Shooting From the Hip

  Zone focus at 1.5–2m | Aperture: f/8 | Camera at waist height

• Working a Scene

  Zone focus to your chosen distance once the scene is set.

• Using Reflections

  Expose for the reflection or the subject — commit to one. Spot meter helps.

• Shooting Into the Light

  Expose for highlights (silhouette) or expose for subject (blown background) — not both.

• Shooting in Rain

  ISO up to compensate for lower light. Shutter fast enough to freeze rain if you want it sharp.

• Shadows and Silhouettes

  Expose for the background. Let subjects go dark. Low sun preferred.

• Layers and Depth

  Wide angle preferred. Close focus on foreground element.

• Framing Within a Frame

  Focus on the subject inside the frame, not the frame itself.

• Panning

  Shutter: 1/30 or slower | Track the subject | Follow through after firing

• Shooting at Night Without Flash

  ISO: 3200–6400+ | Aperture: widest available | Shutter: fast enough to avoid motion blur

• Shooting Vertically

  Camera rotated to portrait orientation. No exceptions for the session.

• The Environmental Portrait

  Shoot at the natural light of the environment.

• Slow Sync Flash

  Flash: manual | Shutter: 1/15–1/4 | Sync: rear curtain if available | ISO: 400

• Telephoto on the Street

  85–135mm equivalent | Shutter: 1/focal length minimum | Work from distance

• Shooting at Dawn

  ISO 800–3200 before sunrise. Drop it fast as light increases.

• Shooting Through Glass

  Lens close to the glass reduces reflections.

• Shooting Through Crowds

  Wide angle works well here. Shoot at f/5.6 or wider.

• Using Window Light

  Expose for the face. Allow the window to blow out.

• Scale and Proportion

  Wide angle for dwarfed subjects. Longer lens for close faces.

• Waiting for the Light to Change

  Zone focus to the crossing distance. Be ready before the light changes.

• Using Architecture as Composition

  Wide angle enhances architectural drama.

• The Pre-Shoot

  Camera down. Eyes open. For ten minutes.

• Sequences and Contact Sheets

  Shoot continuous or rapid single frames.

• High Contrast Black and White

  Expose to crush shadows. Shoot RAW + B&W JPEG to see the conversion in real time.

• Motion Blur (Subject)

  Shutter: 1/15 or slower | Camera: tripod or braced | ISO: low

• Leading Lines

  Wide angles (28–35mm) exaggerate converging lines. Try low angles to amplify the effect.

• Candid

  Quiet shutter preferred. Electronic shutter or Quiet mode. Pre-focus to avoid shutter lag.

• Street Layering

  28–50mm. Aperture f/5.6–f/8 to keep multiple planes in focus.

• Telling a Story

  A slightly longer focal length (50–85mm) can help isolate human interaction from clutter.

• Triggers to Get You Started

  Your default setup. The point is to shoot, not to think about settings.

• Impose Limitations

  Depends on the limitation. The point is to fix one variable and remove the decision.

• Abstract

  Macro capability useful for textures. Manual focus helpful for selective abstraction.

• Confront Your Fears

  But consider: a rangefinder or compact camera is less threatening than a large DSLR with a long lens.

• Hunting vs Fishing

  Hunting: travel light, comfortable shoes. Fishing: find your spot, then set up. A small stool helps for long waits.

• Monochrome Pre-Visualisation

  Set live view to monochrome JPEG preview if shooting RAW. Fujifilm: ACROS simulation in EVF. Sony: Creative Style > Black & White on display while shooting RAW.

• Typography on the Street

  A standard or slightly wide focal length keeps text legible in context.

• Shoot Low

  A tilt screen makes low shooting practical without lying on the pavement. Set zone focus if shooting blind from a low position.

• The Decisive Foreground

  Wide to standard (28–50mm) for maximum foreground-to-background relationship. Smaller aperture (f/5.6–f/8) to keep foreground legible.

• People as Texture

  Longer focal length (85–200mm) for compression. Elevated position where possible. Slow shutter (1/15–1/30) for motion in crowd.

• The Edit

  Lightroom, Capture One, or even Apple Photos. The software matters far less than the ruthlessness.

• Be Noticed

  A quiet camera and a wide lens help you work close and openly.

• Looking for Eye Contact

  Zone focus or quick AF — the moment is brief. f/8, fast shutter.

• Duality

  f/8 to hold both elements sharp. A fishing technique — set up on the fixed half and wait.

• Street Art and People

  f/8, expose for the subject not the wall. Wait for your subject to enter the frame.

• Black and White Portraits

  Expose for the highlights, let shadows go black. A contrasty mono profile, or convert in the edit.